Nov 3, 2008

Dining: Grille 66 & Bar, Fort Lauderdale

2301 SE 17th Street Causeway

(On the property of Hyatt Regency Pier Sixty-Six Resort & Spa ), Fort Lauderdale

954-728-3500

grille66andbar.com

Cuisine: American

Cost: expensive

Hours: dinner nightly (Closed Sundays until Oct. 5)

Reservations: suggested

Credit cards: all major

Bar: full service

Sound level: quiet

Outside smoking: yes

For kids: boosters; high chairs

Wheelchair accessible: yes

First impression: Everything about this casually elegant restaurant evokes a steakhouse/supper club ambience with the bonus of a stunning Intracoastal view.

Decor: Handsomely outfitted in warm woods, white linens and flickering candles.

Starters: Lightly battered calamari and shrimp ($16) is fried so the crunch is almost audible, enlivened by the sweet heat of Asian chili sauce. Jumbo lump is the main ingredient in a Maryland crab cake ($15) served on a bed of roasted fresh corn tingling with jalapeno relish, countered by cool whole-grain mustard remoulade.

Entree excellence: The 22-ounce bone-in rib eye ($42) arrives rosy-centered as ordered, with a gorgeous charred crust. It's melt- in-your-mouth tender thanks to its prime status and 28-day aging. Two center-cut, Niman Ranch pork chops ($28) carry a good jolt thanks to spicy red and green cherry peppers. Macadamia nuts edge moist Chilean sea bass ($38), resting on glistening sauteed spinach surrounded by a slightly sweet shallot/citrus mango sauce.

Sides: $14 buys a shareable signature salad of chopped iceberg, baby tomatoes, cucumbers, applewood smoked bacon and spiced pecans marinated in light Gorgonzola vinaigrette, while family-style steakhouse sides ($10) leave the competition in the dust. The nutmeg-infused, creamed spinach is delicious and lyonnaise potatoes sauteed with onions until caramelized are addictive.

Sweet!: Four can easily divide the cookie/biscotti platter ($10), but the three-layer carrot cake ($12) wins out with moistness from pineapple, walnuts and decadent cream cheese frosting.

Service: True professionals who deliver what you need before you even realize you need it.

Insider tip: Half portions of sides (still plenty to share) are available for $6.

Wine list: Impressive collection with an index to guide you through 59 pages of mostly comfortably-priced selections. Grand dessert wines.

source: sun sentinal


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Rory Vanucchi

RoryVanucchi@gmail.com